How much does radon mitigation cost?
Published November 5, 2026
Short answer
There is no single national price for fixing a home. Published ranges from state radon programs differ by state and by method. Wisconsin DHS (checked November 5, 2026) states an average of $1,000–$2,000. Illinois IEMA (checked November 5, 2026) states a general range of $800 to $1,200. Minnesota Department of Health (checked November 5, 2026) states a general range of $1,500 to $3,000.
Your house may fall outside any of those ranges. Foundation type, the number of suction points, crawlspace work, fan and electrical work, and a post-install retest all change the bid. The EPA cost page and the Consumer's Guide to Radon Reductionsay costs vary with home size, design, and method, and that most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs; the current EPA Consumer's Guide edition checked on November 5, 2026 does not print a dollar range.
Sources checked November 5, 2026: Wisconsin DHS, Illinois IEMA PDF, Minnesota MDH, EPA cost FAQ, EPA Consumer's Guide PDF.
Published cost ranges, by source
Each row is one published figure and the page that states it. This page does not average those rows into a new number.
| Source | What it states | Link |
|---|---|---|
| Wisconsin DHS | Average $1,000–$2,000 | dhs.wisconsin.gov |
| Illinois IEMA Radon Program | Generally $800 to $1,200 | IEMA guide PDF |
| Minnesota Department of Health | Generally $1,500 to $3,000 | health.state.mn.us |
What drives the price
The Consumer's Guide to Radon Reduction says the right method depends on the initial radon level, installation and operating costs, home size, and foundation type. Homes are usually basement, slab-on-grade, crawlspace, or a mix. A mix can need more than one technique.
Foundation type and soil suction
For basement and slab-on-grade homes, EPA describes soil-suction options that include active subslab depressurization (also called subslab suction), drain-tile suction, sump-hole suction, and block-wall suction. Active subslab depressurization is the most common and usually the most reliable method in that guide: one or more suction pipes under the slab, connected to a fan that vents outdoors.
For crawlspace homes, EPA describes submembrane depressurization: a plastic sheet over the soil, with a pipe and fan drawing from under the sheet. That approach is usually more work than a single suction point under a finished basement slab.
Fan, electrical work, and routing
An active system needs a continuously running fan, an electrical connection that meets local code, and a vent that discharges above the roof per the guide's clearance rules. Minnesota MDH notes that most installations need electrical work for the fan and that the work may require an electrical permit. Routing the pipe inside a chase versus outside the wall also changes labor and materials.
Sealing and the retest
EPA says sealing cracks and openings is part of most approaches, but sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon significantly or consistently. A written bid should say whether sealing is included.
After install, you still need a test. The Consumer's Guide says a post-mitigation test should be done within 30 days of installation, but no sooner than 24 hours after the system is in operation with the fan on. An independent tester avoids a conflict of interest. How short-term and long-term tests differ is on short-term versus long-term radon tests. Reading the number is on what radon levels mean.
Checklist for comparing written quotes
Use this list when you compare bids. It follows the contractor questions in the Consumer's Guide and the hiring tips on Minnesota MDH's mitigation professional page.
- The installer visited the house before quoting. Minnesota MDH says bids should not be made only by phone or email.
- Proof of state license or registration where your state requires it, plus national certification where used (see the next section).
- Proof of liability insurance, bonding, and any local licenses the job needs.
- A description of the method (for example, subslab depressurization), pipe routing, fan location, and sealing work.
- Whether diagnostic testing is included, and whether there is a separate fee for it.
- A system failure warning device (manometer, alarm, or similar), labeled system, and written operating instructions.
- Whether electrical work and permits are in the price.
- A post-mitigation test plan, and whether an independent test is expected.
- Any written guarantee to reach a stated level (for example, at or below 4 pCi/L), and for how long.
- Total price, deposit, and when payment is due. Minnesota MDH advises not paying in full before a post-mitigation test shows reduced levels, and to be wary of quotes under $1,000.
Get more than one estimate. Illinois IEMA asks homeowners to request two or three estimates from licensed mitigators.
How to check certification and state licensing
Start with your state radon office. Many states license, certify, or register radon contractors and can give you a state list. EPA also points to private proficiency programs on its find a test kit or professional page.
Two national bodies keep certified-professional lookup pages:
Check the name on the bid against the lookup page and against your state list. Ask for the individual's license or certification number and confirm it is current.
After the system is in
Keep the fan on continuously. Check the warning device on a regular schedule. Retest at least every two years, and again after remodeling, per the Consumer's Guide. Test timing and device choice are covered on short-term versus long-term radon tests.
What this page is not
This page is about contractor mitigation of an existing home. It is not a price for engineered design packages for large buildings; those are described on design pricing. New single-family rough-in packages (design sheets for construction, not a retrofit install) are on single-family packages.